Tatras classic routes with fix anchors
Beautiful classic routes always were and still are quite frequented. Many climbers and repeated extraction of pegs (in routes or at belay stations) caused the increased damage of the rock. This led several climbers from the older generation to become part of anchor replacement initiative. Undisputable aspect of replacement was of course safety. The best example was set by Vlado “Gypsy” Tatarka, mountaineer, rescuer who very sensitively choose the routes and methods of replacement. Most of the routes have the belay stations replaced (bolts) and sometimes climbing anchors (bolt, expansion bolt). It may happen, that the replacement means only one bolt, in order route remains untouched and keeps its beauty. After Tatarka passed away there has been several additional anchor replacement on several routes. By all means you need to take more then basic rack: set of cams, nuts, 2 ropes (at least 2x50 m), you won’t need pegs/pitons. The list does not contain new sport routes and more difficult technical routes (today considered as a sport routes) that are equipped with fixed anchors (for example routes at Jastrabia veža, Ošarpance etc.)
List of routes
Mengusovská dolina
Galéria Ostrvy Z
Dieškov kút VII-.
Volia veža JZ stena
Eštok-Janiga VI+/VII-.Stanislawského cesta V.
Štáflovka V.
J rebro III.
Žabí kôň J
Häberlainova cesta IV.
Zlomiská
Malý Ošarpanec
Komarnicki - komín IIIPuškášova cesta VI+
Plškova cesta VI-
Batizovská dolina
Batizovský štít J
Kuttove platne IV+/V-
Velická dolina
Velická stena Z
Cez výlom IV-V.
Granátova stena JZ
Ľavým zárezom IV. (údajne preistené?)
Opálová veža JZ
J pilier IV.
Veľká Studená dolina
Javorový štít JZ
Rebrom Kele-Šuna III-IV.
Široká veža J
Motykova cesta V.
Malá Studená dolina
Malý Ľadový štít J
Cesta k slnku V.
Lomnický štít Z
Puškáš V.Hokejka VI.
Skalnatá dolina
Kežmarský štít J
Ľavé vhĺbenie Puškáš IV.Obrovský kút VI. - kút
Birkenmajer a rampa IV (údajne?).
Veľká Zmrzlá dolina
Čierny štít JV
Puškášov pilier IV.Narovnanie piliera V.
Malá Zmrzlá dolina
Kolový štít JV
Šádek - Zlatník V+.
Jastrabia veža JZ
Rülkeho komín III.
Červená dolina
Východná Žeruchová veža J
Cesta cez knihu V.
Dolina Bielej vody Kežmarskej