Popis-štítu / Description:
Malý Mlynár is the first distinctive rocky elevation in the north ridge of Mlynár. This ridge separates Bielovodská dolina (peak) from Žabia dolina Bielovodská (peak). There are two summits of Malý Mlynár, the higher SE one and the lower, NW one, that is separated from the vegetated ridge of Skorušniaky (towers) by Vyšné Skorušie sedlo (saddle). The ridge slopes down in southern direction to Priehyba pod Malým Mlynárom (saddle). On the left side of the massif of Malý Mlynár there is a E face; NE face (350 m high) of SE main summit is separated form NE face of lower NW summit by deep depression leading up to Štrbina v Malom Mlynári (notch). Further right there is 250 m high N pillar that scarps to the right to the NW face over the gully leading up to Vyšné Skorušie sedlo (saddle). The faces are popular among the climbers due to the solid rock. The routes on these faces are interesting, quite difficult and exposed, suitable for summer and winters climbing as well. The face was very popular in 60-70’s among the polish climbers.
East, Northeast and Northwest face The east face is approximately 120 meters high, the northeast 350 meters. All the faces offer climbing on relatively solid rock. Climbing is demanding and exposed, good during summer as well as in winter.
Approach:
1.From Lysá Poľana follow the blue hiking trail towards Kačacia dolina. On Podúplazská poľana (mountain meadow, 1,5 - 2 hours from Lysá Poľana) enter the forest and continue directly to the gully full of rocks. Scramble up the gully and moraine until you reach the place where the gully deepens and turns left and you shall see the large rocky platform above. Continue diagonally to the left up the exposed edges and grassy steps to the patches of grass. Then continue diagonally to the right, being above already mentioned large rocky platform, into the wide rocky-grassy depression beneath the northeast face. (2 hours from Podúplazská poľana, II UIAA). To access the east face, use the route no.1. To access the right part of the northeast and northwest face traverse to the right and up under walls through rocky and grassy steps into a small saddle. From here continue directly under the northwest face (1 hour).
2. Note: access from Žabia dolina Bielovodská and Vyšné Skorušie sedlo is prohibited! (For future: To the Vyšné Skorušie sedlo (saddle)- from the Žabia dolina Bielovodská (valley). This access route is more comfortable, but the valley entrance is quite steep as well. You shall turn sharply to right 4 m behind the picnic place at the Podúplazská poľana (as if you turned back), follow the noticeable forest trail, which is blocked by a wooden gate (like a tollgate) after 100 m. (According to the rules of TANAP/national park, the access to this valley is prohibited). Behind the gate there is a noticeable serpentine trail leading up the wooded rib to the footbridge over the Žabí potok (stream). Then you shall follow the trail to the outflow of the stream from the tarn beneath the moraine of Nižné Žabie pleso Bielovodské (tarn). You shall cross the stream and scramble from the NE bank of the tarn up the steep grass and later up the grassy gully to the wide Vyšné Skorušie sedlo (saddle). Then you shall walk beneath the E face and continue up to the already mentioned little saddle and ledges in opposite direction to the NE face (it takes 2 - 2,5hours from the meadow to the saddle, walking)).

Zostup zo štítu / Descent:

The most convenient and easiest descent from Malý Mlynár is to Žabia dolina Bielovodská.
1. From the main SE summit you shall descent directly to the west, down the rocky-grassy slope with sparse mountain pines to the NE bank of Nižné Žabie pleso Bielovodské (tarn) (walking, 0,5 hour).
2. Descent down the Vyšné Skorušie sedlo. From the main SE summit you shall follow the ridge to the NW and continue through the shallow saddle to the less distinctive, lower, NW summit. From the summit you shall still follow the NE ridge, steeply down the brittle steps (you can skirt around these from the left) to the wide Vyšné Skorušie sedlo (saddle) (I, 20 minutes). From the saddle you shall continue directly down to the west, first down the grassy gully, later down the grassy slope to the NE bank of the Nižné Žabie pleso Bielovodské (tarn) (walking, 25 minutes). Follow the trail from the tarn and descent in opposite direction as described in access route, down the valley until you reach Podúplazská poľana (mountain meadow) and hiking trail in Bielovodská dolina (valley)(walking, 1 hour).
3. Directly to Bielovodská dolina: from the summit an easy ridge into Vyšné Skorušie sedlo (saddle). Continue down to the gully under the northwest face, cross a small saddle and traverse under the northeast face into the Malý Mlynárov (gully). Then go down the gully the same way as described in the approach. In winter suitable, when there are good snow conditions. (In winter risk of avalanches as well). Translated by M. Ridzoň.